For most people, life refers to more than 40 hours of work per week. Every day, traffic jams are commuting and the schedule is full. However; we can rock climbing less and less year after year... The good news is that now you can have a perfect climbing physique for only 60 minutes a week. I don't mean any weight training, or "Hell-style demon training," nor do I refer to the popular Tae-Bo fitness club. Doing this can only help your climbing. This is true rock climber training that allows you to spend the least time and get the most out of it. Of course, this training will not enable you to participate in the World Cup, but for the weekend climbers, its effect can reach 80%, while the whole training of the climber is only 20% of the effect.
The biggest difference between the basic "training" and "smart training" is that the latter has both "effective" and "efficient" at the same time. Efficiency means that you choose a good training method. Effectiveness; that is, you properly implement the training method you choose. However, there are only a few climbers who can simultaneously have both efficiency and effectiveness.
For example; if a beginner climbs into the indoor rock park three days a week, then this is a very efficient strategy for him. However, if it all climbs some difficult routes and the actual time to climb on the rock is only a little bit, then there is no efficiency.
On the other hand, if an experienced rock climber is too heavy for a long time to climb, he may control the diet first, and then do weight training to restore him to his original shape. These sports are effective for him. Because he does some weight training, but it has no direct effect on increasing rock climbing. However, if he does exercise with weight loss, lock-off training, or bouldering, his training will be more efficient.
Strategies The first step in "smart training" is to perform a no-holds-barred self assessment to find out the weaknesses of your own climbing. (See my book How to Climb 5.12 for self-testing). Step 2 Set an effective training goal to improve your weakest link. Finally, perform more effective training.
For the following training plan, you can increase or decrease the training time of 60 minutes, or increase or decrease the time of each item, but please choose according to whether it achieves the effect. If you can implement your training plan, then you can Your ability to climb to the next level, it may be 5.8 or 5.12.
Smart Training Tip Tips
1. Build a rock field This is a worthwhile investment. Even building an 8mm × 8° (244cm) artificial rock wall with a 45 degree overhang can make training both effective and efficient.
2. Warm-up for 10-20 minutes Just like doing aerobic exercise, if you are too heavy (can you pinch one point at a time?) That's a good idea. Body warming can help you with general endurance.
3. Pre-write your training plan for the week including the approximate start and end time. Only allow 60 minutes to complete all the tasks. After each item is ticked, there is a clock with countdown function to ensure that you can Exercise.
4. Self-training If you have more than two hours of training, you can talk to your friends. However, the 60-minute training requires you to be as undisturbed as possible, concentrate on training, and train as much as you can.
5. Do stretching exercises for a few minutes Do some stretching after running or between the project and the project 6. When climbing, beginners should focus on the distance between endurance and climbing.
Advanced rock climbers should focus on maximum explosive power and technical difficulty.
60 minutes of smart training method
Beginner Advanced
Required equipment: Horizontal bar, training board or gym 1.) 15 minutes of running.
2.) 5 minutes of cooling and stretching exercises.
3.) 15 minutes of horizontal bar training.
Make a set of 5 pull-down machines with a lat pull-down machine. Take a break of two minutes between each group. Take 20 minutes of sit-ups for the rest of the day (crooked knees, flat feet) Posted on the ground).
4.) Push the muscles for 10 minutes to do 2 sets of lean-ups, or bench press supine (if possible), and rest for 2 minutes between each group.
5.) Pull muscle training for 15 minutes is done with 5 sets of pull-ups. The difference is that; this time, the horizontal bar does not come down until it reaches a minute or it can't be caught. Take 2 minutes between each group until full training. Required equipment: horizontal bar, training board or gym 1.) 12 minutes of running.
2.) 3 minutes of cooling and stretching exercises.
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