Original from: Author: EricJ.Horst compilation: Liufeng51
In the early stages of pioneer rock climbing, it is very likely that you will hesitate at a difficult point, whether to give up or continue upwards, and to fall in the direction of the most difficult point (it may also succeed in breaking through difficulties). There is no doubt that the instinctive response to expecting a climb to avoid falling is a mental challenge for you. This high level of anxiety will prevent or destroy your steady and confident climb. However, this is a problem that all the upcoming pioneer climbers must overcome. With specific training, you will overcome the fear of falling and raise the level to a higher level. In fact, the way in which self overcomes the fear of falling also helps you to play a role in other areas of life's challenges.
To become accustomed to sinking, you must have a direct dialogue with the actual fall experience. In your fear of instinct, you must force yourself to fall (assuming you are on a safe course of motion or in a rock pavilion). The difficult limit to Pioneer climbing can be. Many beginners think this is unbearable. They are too nervous in front of a difficult climb. Because they have been climbing uphill, it is unclear whether it is a terrible thing to fall or fall. What is interesting is that once they have fallen, the vanguard experience of peace will eliminate its dangerous fantasy, and most fears will disappear.
If you can't make yourself try to fall, you need to have purposeful shedding to defeat fear. It is usually possible to choose an indoor climbing gym or a well-protected outdoor vertical exercise course for falling. Hanging rock routes are ideal places. Climb three to four expansion screws high, make sure your protection system is OK, the last expansion screw is one to two feet away from your seatbelt, and start your first fall. When the rope is braked, your outward body only falls a short distance and analyzes how the protection system works. Then, climb higher than you just tried another purposeful impact and repeat the process several times until the final expansion screw is higher than your feet.
When you begin to fall in training, it feels like taking bitter medicine. After a few weeks, you will consciously or subconsciously adapt to the feeling of falling, and you can continue on the On-sight line or the red spot. Your fear of sinking will decrease and you can concentrate on trying to climb the target. Doing this will give you a new breakthrough.
(The first translation, errors, please correct me! Thank you!)
Mike Free man and Russ Cluneon Love Life(12b)
Liufeng51's Experience on Pioneer Pendant Practice
1) Finding a skilled pioneer protector who you trust can ease the fear of practicing shedding;
2) Pioneer should practice hanging and hanging before, regardless of the direction of the opening of the hanging, the left and right hands need to be skilled, each exercise at least 50 times, at the same time learn to solve the method of hanging fast (to reverse the fast hanging to unlock It is easy for beginners to hang fast.)
3) The Pioneer Pendant is best trained on the artificial rock wall. The elevating angle of more than 90 degrees or the size of the roof is the best practice place, which can reduce the possibility of accidental injury.
4) It is better to climb a little higher in the fall training. It is a better choice to pull out the elevation angle or the eaves. Generally, at least five or six of the followings should be hung (more than ten meters), so as to reserve sufficient buffer length for the rope, relatively speaking It will be safer. After a long fall, one should change the other end of the rope and let the rope “rest†for a while;
5) Do not catch the rope during the practice of falling. If you are afraid, you can start the practice from a short distance and gradually increase the distance to fall until you do not feel scared.
6) When you fall, you should relax and stretch your hands naturally. You can also protect your chest, but do not push hard on the rock wall so as to avoid breaking away from the rock wall and hitting the rock wall (you can use the foot rock wall);
7) Pioneer pay attention to your feet and rope when climbing, do not let the rope wrapped around your heel, so as to avoid the inverted fall.
With the original:
Beating the Fear of Falling
Early ventures at lead climbing will likely have you in the midst of a crux pondering whether to retreat from the difficulties or push yourself to the point of falling (or possibly a success without falling!). No doubt, there will be many mental battles waged As result desire feeds a high level of anxiety that feeds back and disrupts your ability to climb smoothly and -be lead climbers must persevere through. Given a committed, disciplined effort, you will eventually conquer the fear of falling and reveal a whole new level of ability. Whats more, winning over fear is a process of self-development that will enhance your capabilities In other challenging areas of your life.
To become accustom to falling, however, is a state that only results from real-life experience at taking lead falls. Therefore, you must force yourself to fall (assuming its a safe sport route or gym climb) in spite of what your instincts dictate . Such "practice at falling" is something that might occur simply by pushing yourself to the limit on a difficult lead climb. Many novice leaders find this to be an impossible task, because its just too scary to push upward on a hard climb not knowing If they will fall or what the fall will be like. Interestingly, most of the fear evaporates once they do fall--experiencing the uneventnessness of the average lead fall dispels the illusion of danger.
If you cant bring yourself to fall trying, you will need to stage some intentional falls in order to beat the fear. An indoor climbing gym or a sudden well-protected sport route provides the ideal platform for practice falls. Select a slightly overhanging route void Of high-profile holds, and climb up to the third or fourth bolt. Confirm that your belayer is ready, and then take your first fall with the last bolt you clipped just a foot or two below your harness. In this case, letting go Will turn out to be rather anticlimactic as you drop only a few feet before the rope arrests the fall. Upon taking the fall, analyze how well the belay system worked. (It is trustworthy after all!) Now, climb back up a foot or Two higher than before and take another intentional fall. Repeat this process one or two more times, with the goal of taking your final practice fall with the bolt at or just below your feet.
Then, as you begin to pursue on-sight and redpoint ascents, youll notice a progression fear of falling and a new instinctual desire to risk and embrace falling in the attempt of a worthy goal. Recognize this new disposition as a major breakthrough, and pat yourself on the back!
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