Translated: Climbing Tech Tips 210 Author: Matt Stanley compile: Zhang Qing
You have climbed to a height of 20 meters, and there are five or six meters to the top. But your arm is sour and bulging, as if the blood flow and power are blocked, and the little slot that you do your best to grab does not allow you to relax and recover. At this time, if you can find a large saddle terrain that you can ride on, or if you can have a cavern that can be hooked on both feet, it would be nice to let your hands loosen and take a rest. You can definitely climb it.
When you climb the extreme edge of the route, you have to face not only how to pass through the difficulties. How many people complained gloomily: "I have passed the difficulties, but she fell off one step away from the top chain!" Because it is difficult to move, is not it, if a few steps in the starting position, it is a side dish The disc is falling because you are tired and all parts of the body are not listening. In order for the muscles to work effectively, you need to find and make the best use of the best breaks. Here are two break strategies.
Finding novel and effective rest postures
The feeling of a good rest point is that there is a big hand point and there are two suitable foot points, but there is often no such obvious hint in the route. Smart climbers use a variety of dexterous body language to achieve the purpose of rest, such as the hook of the wrist, arm, heel, and legs; the swelling of the buttocks and shoulders; the pushing of knees and arms; the frog, the swollen hand, or even sitting On the rock wall. The updated and oddly effective posture also includes a ring elbow support (inserting the elbow into the recessed terrain of the rock wall, adjusting the angle of the elbow, and opening the support), the meat hook (the thick part of the lower part of the palm of your hand depends on the friction Hold down the smaller bulges on the rock wall, you can also fully creative, even facing the rock face facing the audience. Combining the specific topography of the rock wall, exerting your imagination, and combining the above means will result in a very practical and effective rest posture.
Develop a strategy for rest
During the ONSIGHT climb, you cannot get route information in advance, including where to rest, how to rest, etc. So, when looking at the route, you have to browse from head to toe, position potential breaks, and consider the rest posture you may take.
Unlike ONSIGHT, the REDPOINT process gives the climber more opportunities to find a way to rest. At this time, you have to make full use of all possibilities and try every means to delay muscle fatigue and failure. Don't just simply flip your hands off. You should invest the same energy as you do to find the best break.
If the difficulties to be met require a certain hand to exert a great deal of strength, but there is not much demand for the other hand, consider adopting an unbalanced rest method and sacrificing the rest time of the auxiliary hand to ensure the recovery of the main force hand.
You have to make it clear that you need to restore physical strength to a certain rest point. Does the next section require you to fully recover? Or is it only a moderate difficulty and afterwards there is a very good rest point? These have to be carefully planned for your consideration. In climbing we need to use more brain instead of relying entirely on the strength of the arm.
May 2003 Translation
Original source: v7plus.com
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